The flashing neon lights of Shinjuku illuminate a district famed for its station’s perennial throng, glass and steel high rises occupied by the countries business elite, mammoth department stores and the distinctive brand of sleaze that wafts out of Kabukicho. All this, however, belies Shinjuku’s former life as the nucleus of the city’s nascent counterculture.
In the 1960s, Shinjuku was a hive of radicals, artists and intellectuals of myriad persuasion, a place where like-minded individuals could express themselves in opposition to the “economic miracle” that was swiftly transforming the foundations of Japan. It was the home of the angura (underground) scene, where hippies sang, beatniks postured, ava
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