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Soul of Japan

Purveyor of Fine Japanese Cuisines,Nihonshu,Shrine, Onsen and Jukujo.
1 Feb
Leaving Geibikei behind, and with pleasant memories of that experience, I continued back down route 19 to my hotel.   As I was making my way down towards the busy part of Ichinoseki, I noticed at how well the city was planned out.   Lots of major electronics chains, family restaurants, and so on were everywhere, even a SoftBank.    Unlike other prefectures where you have to travel to one major city for all of your shopping needs, many cities in Iwate offer just about everything.   Things like memory sticks or batteries for your camera, all the stuff you may have missed when packing for that trip.    After I did a look over of my things I was all set and didn't have to worry about anything.    Cities in Tohoku get a B+  plus for having well stocked stores with readily available goods.



Some  travelers overlook subtle details about accommodation before they set out.   Sure, everybody has their own price points.   Some look for cheap lodging, others more extravagant accommodation, or a package holiday.   Last winters holiday I focused on accommodations that offered a 24 hour hot spring.  This year I focused on onsen sommelier certified scenery baths with real hot springs.   I looked for signs like this when researching onsen ryokans.   Most assume that if the water is dug out from the ground then it's a hot spring.   If that were true then 'well water' would constitute as onsen.    The only way to know if the water is authentic is if it's  tested for mineral richness; not necessarily by smell, and the only way to know if it's been tested for mineral content is if there's a sign that looks like this.    A plaque that certifies that the onsen is real and authentic by the Japan Onsen Association.  



There was an incident that occurred a few years ago at a well known onsen ryokan in Nagano, at place that was famous for having milky colored water.    The properitor was adding white powder to the water in order to fool  customers into thinking that the onsen was  real, when in fact he was adding 50% tap water and powder.   But luckily a wise eye found out and it was all over the six o'clock news that evening.   Japanese take their baths seriously.    Because of that incident I have taken extra care myself when reading the fine print, or at least what I can understand.    Scientifically, all water, even tap water, can have therapeutic benefits.   A hot bath at home can help relieve stress and anxiety and can aid in expanding blood vessels.    Even carbonated water here.   However, home baths with bath salts are not hot spring spas, and cannot offer you the same benefits of a real onsen.   Magma based water that springs from the ground, and that is rich in sulfur and magnesium and sodium chloride and a dozen other rare elements is what keeps the elderly coming back time and time again are the real springs.




This brings me to my title.   Onsen Sommelier....  Just like in the wine and Japanese sake world you have a certification that recognizes you as a professional, same for onsen.   All of the onsen I visited on this trip were certified by the Onsen Sommelier Association.    A certification like this is not common through out most of Japan.   Most real onsen ryokans will have just the Japan Onsen Association, not the Onsen Sommelier Association....   They are not the same.    There are other associations as well, like the Hidden Yado Association, and  others.     So what's the difference?      Aside from having an authentic onsen experience, the sommelier certified onsen are based on a higher standard of excellence.   Things like the view, and the design of the onsen and its facilities are taken into greater consideration.   The type of water and how it blends with its natural surroundings.    For example.


The arrow indicated where the Tohoku Expressway runs.  When the designers put this onsen together they focused on two completely different landscapes, a night view and a daytime view.  In the daytime you cannot really see an expressway from the above bath, but what you can see is the expanse of  terroir and hills.    Since this hotel is high up, you can really catch the breeze from the north while reflecting on the scenery far off.   At night, you can witness the winding Tohoku Expressway as it crosses the horizon from your view from left to right when sitting in the bath.   Pitch black starry night sky and flickering red and white lights from vehicles heading up and down the most advanced expressway in the world, and all from the ambiance of that hot mineral rich hot spring on a wintery cold night.

Another example:


You enter where the arrow starts; soak for a several minutes; stand up; step over the stone and stand on the stone perch to catch this commanding view.   How diverse a view depends on what the architect wanted to achieve.   For some, the expressway is beautiful lending a sort of modern edge to this onsen.

Some smattering of snow in the background.     How the onsen is designed to bring together certain elements of wood, earth, and stone are essential.    When I mentioned the Hidden Yado Association earlier, I said they were different.   They specialize in the natural essence of onsen, not necessarily the architectural design.    In other words, the rugged hardly touched onsen found deep in nature.

Southern Iwate presents the gateway to the most beautiful and dynamic onsen in Japan I think.   In other post I will highlight other onsen sommelier certified onsen pics.    If you like this post please tweet it, digg, stumble it, or guest post it.    Thanks for reading.


29 Jan



The best way to travel around this far up north in  winter is by car.   JR Morioka Station, a major Hub for many connections through-out Tohoku, could be a good option if you have a lot of time on your hands and want to see one or two really good places by rail, like Koiwai Farms for example.   However, if you want to really explore more of Iwate's interior, and do not like long waits between transfers and less frequent train service then the car is the obvious choice, especially now since the Tohoku Expressway is free from Sendai to Hachinohe.    I chose Morioka Station as my base point because I wanted to ride the Hayabusa Shinkansen up there from Tokyo, and then return to Tokyo on Gran Class.    There are other less expensive alternative base points, like Miyagi or Sendai  via the Hayate Shinkansen.    Another note:  Morioka is well within 200km of Aomori, Akita and Sendai respectively, so an easy day trip to either of those prefectures is possible by train or car.


After renting a mazda 4WD, I quickly jumped on the Tohoku Expressway south bound for Ichinoseki,   I stopped over at a road station called the Shiwa Service area where I tried JaJamen noodles, one of the three great noodles of Iwate.   The noodles are similar to udon but flat with a miso topping.   Not a bad dish.  After finishing up with some hot tea, which was great by the way because it was really cold outside, I got back on the road to Ichinoseki.




But why Ichinoseki..?  Why head down south...?   Because  it's quite famous for a few great  places, but if I had to choose one place to visit  then I'd highly recommend the Geibi Gorge, especially in winter, where you can witness beautiful  snow covered Chinese landscape vistas from a  wooden gondola.    Almost surreal.  





Something about being seranaded by a boat captain an ancient tune from his womb, and  weather worn face  while navigating his way down a narrow waterway replete with flora and carps, and these huge soaring cliffs reaching upwards to 60 meters in the backdrop.     If you're lucky and can go there on a heavy snow day you will be in for a real epic experience. 

The whole boat trip including the short break you get is about 90 minutes.    1500 yen per person.  


 Boats depart ever hour on the hour.   You can pick up a lunch box and some sake for the trip. In the summer and spring the canopies come off.


The geological relavance is only significant for those who understand geology.   People who come to Geibi do so to absorb the abundant natural beauty and wonder of Iwate's backcountry.     This is an ancient gorge and a masterpiece in and of itself.    I love winters in Japan!  


29 Jan








Disaster Tourism


I was there, standing on the Imaizumi Bridge on highway 19 pondering whether or not I should drive two hours to the coast of Kesennuma.    Maybe I could've  worn  a ' pray for Japan' T-shirt, or delivered a box of food or helped out with the relief effort over there.    I could've done those things, but sometimes I wonder how much of a good thing can actually be a bad thing, like when world renowned television evangelist Billy Graham flew several tons of food to some of the hardest hit tsunami ravaged areas.    I clearly remember reports coming out that most of the food items were rejected or totally unused or thrown out.   Corn flakes and pop tarts weren't exactly a hit with the victims.   I think it's because Japanese tend to be a self contained people, only needing what is absolutely essential for life and nothing more.   I thought about that.   Sometimes too much charity from outside sources  can be downright embarrassing, especially when local government isn't doing enough for its own people.   

("Even in the aftermath of destruction, this part of Japan is still impeccably beautiful")






We know why Billy Graham went to Japan to deliver food.   I'm sure that wasn't his only motive.     He could've donated that food to the poor and jobless back in America, not fly half way around the world to feed a people who clearly reject what he really represents in the name of charity because of divine retribution.   Where were his priorities?   There's plenty of food, water, and blankets in Japan.    This is not a poor country.   At that moment I knew what I had to do.....   I moved on.     



Traditionally, Japanese communities take care of their own in times of crisis.    Unless you've been poor or in dire need and left for dead by your own government,  you would never understand what it feels like when you've been let down by them, and then having to depend on strangers from  foreign lands for very basic things.   There's a sense of pride and dignity that's lost somewhere when that happens.    There's a sense of shame for some people  when  accepting the charity of strangers.   I had no business there, especially for sightseeing the disastrous ruins of one of the worst catastrophes ever to hit Japan.   Of course the locals express gratitude, like any person would, but with shame and humility.  
What the Japanese need more now than anything is for you to donate to their economy by spending your money buying locally grown produce and delicious  nihonshu.    There is no shortage of locally grown food or rice or medical supplies here.   If you really want to make a difference then that would be the best form of charity for them.   Trust me.  


28 Jan





So what about Iwate...?   A place I've been through a few times already.   This time  around I spent a week up there taking in the surrounding areas, and seeing the prefecture from a slower pace.    Here's a brief write up on a previous trip through here via the Akita Komachi express bound for Iwate. 




Morioka, the capital city of Iwate,  is  very conservative, unlike its rural towns where people are a bit warmer.   You can sense the conviviality in the air more in the rural areas than in Morioka city.   It's not a bad thing though.   Just takes a little getting used to.   The capital itself is rudimentary with no unique skyline other than when you're standing on the 14th floor of the Route Inn Hotel where you command the best view of Mount Iwaki and the JR Morioka Station.  It's quite gorgeous at dusk actually.     In comparison, North American cities, especially capitals, are livelier and people tend to be more open and less conservative whereas in the country people are  less open to outsiders, yet are warm on the outside and suspicious of people they don't know which cannot be concealed with the least bit of feigness.   In other words, they are hospitable in a suspicious way and you can sense it.  The exact opposite in Iwate where the country folk are very warm and inviting and the city folk are strange and indifferent.


As I was sitting in a Starbucks in the heart of Morioka at around noon  I quickly noticed that  Moriokans are definitely more conservative and plain looking, like a dry glass of water without the ice.    In Japanese the expression that would best describe Moriokan women in particular would be seisokirei, a term loosely used in Japanese to imply a woman that's  plain, clean and simply beautiful.    Faces are all lightly made up.  Modest wear.   Overall pleasant.   I never notice the men.    At least the people here greet unlike in Tokyo, especially the milque-toast young types.   


Morioka is a thoughtfully planned out city.   There're elevators and pedestrian strips at just about every major crosswalk.   Plenty of maps and easy to read street signs that are in English and Japanese.  Wide sidewalks, plenty of ATMs and convenience stores, and efficient mass transit network.  It's an alarmingly quiet city to be a capital.   The police are incredibly either overweight or over aged and probably have nothing to do all day long.    There is a charm here that can definitely be felt and appreciated if you take some time and soak it all in, but not so much in Morioka, which is a lot like what Tokyo used to be 60 years ago I think; austere.     Morioka does not reflect the soul of Iwate.    It's a city made for elderly with a few very nice little parks and sake shops.   




In my next post I will leave Morioka to re-explore the countryside.




22 Jan
ユナイテッド アスレ United Athle 【公式サイト】
Military
19 Jan
Install iOS 5 On Your iPhone 2G/3G Or Old iPod Touch Using WhiteD00r, No Jailbreak Required
18 Jan
After sumo, refreshments in a traditional setting is definitely in the works. コクキドウ or ko-ku-ki-do is a traditional Japanese style tea house next door to the sumo arena.   After six beers and yakitori I needed to refresh my palate with sesame cream soft ice cream, fruit, and some hot barley tea.






The dessert is called Anmitsu, and has been around for decades.  It's got red azuki beans, jelly, fruit, and sometimes ice cream.   You pour black sesame sugar over it to give it texture.  Enjoy.  When finished wash it all down with hot barley tea.





If you need a little more, then order the coffee.  Japan's coffee culture is on the same level as Europe now and is no longer playing catch up.  Trust me.  Not to include espresso, though.  Still have a ways to go.






Directions are really simple.   Right near the Ryogoku Station near the main street.  Lovely Jukujo are there to assist you.






18 Jan
road condition Getting Here - Hiraizumi Tourism Association Three kinds of Popular Alcoholic Beverages Yorozu Tetsugoro
art Free download links for Yorozu Tetsugoro book by Yoshio Murakami pdf ebook
16 Jan
PDF on sumo. The file can be enlarged for easier reading. Lots of commentary and pictures. Enjoy. Retweet if you find it interesting. Thanks again. Also, I recommend reading another entry post here.


15 Jan
PDF on downtown Tokyo and the urbanization of northeastern Sumida Ward's park and gardens.


14 Jan
Travel photography: beginner’s guide to using digital SLRs
11 Jan
Crowd in the Tokyo subway The Health Benefits of Eating Avocados
10 Jan
An essay written in PDF form about the historic significance of Tokyo's Memorial Hall and the aftermath of destruction caused by U.S. Forces.


Memorial Hall


8 Jan
Frequently Asked Questions about Coffee Bear Pond Save to Delicious Go and see the sumo - Yoko-Yoko Photo Club (Y2PC) (Yokohama) - Meetup Jiro Dreams of Sushi (Official Movie Site) - Directed by David Gelb - In Theatres March 9th, 2012 - Trailer, Pictures & More
Greatest sushi chef in the world
6 Jan
The Ultimate Guide to Using iTunes Match
30 Dec
A PDF on the joys of drinking winter the Japanese way.  How it's done and how to appreciate its many beautiful aspects.
                                                                                           


30 Dec
PDF on a late-night coffee spot in Yokohama. When it's time to burn the midnight oil what do you do, stay home? No. You go to a mood cafe. Coffee Shops


15 Dec
PDF on truly ethnocentric ideals. Why Japan fails at this most basic thing. It's important to know yourself first.Ethnocentric


26 Nov
Short PDF for the wine and dog lovers inside all of us. With pairings and recommendations. On those cold autumn nights when it's just you and that special someone curled up and enjoying nicely chilled wines and cheeses, or maybe even a dog for good measure. Here's to you. Wine & Dogs


18 Nov
An inflammatory piece on Japan, the Japanese, and the current state of affairs of the nation and what is on the horizon. What to expect and why.


14 Nov
PDF on the best BBQ eats in Yokohama and Tokyo, and more. Google maps are not provided, just the links.


26 Oct
PDF on the flavor of the month and the exploration of higher stimulation through the liquid essence of life, love, and the pursuit of happiness. Flavor of the Month


20 Oct
PDF on my journey to Aomori down interstate 101 Ooiwa, Fukaura,sea of Japan, sea scallops and my impressions of the area.


19 Oct
A very short on going series in PDF on Shirakami's Landscape with some additional tidbits of information about hiking.


19 Oct
A PDF of my journey to Lake Juniko in the Shirakami Unesco World Heritage in Aomori Prefecture, home to the largest Seibold Beech forest in Japan. juniko


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